A quick tip for cruise passengers

The other evening I went down to the cruise ship dock to meet a friend who was coming through Victoria at the end of an Alaskan cruise. While I was waiting, I watched the passengers file off and be directed to waiting tour buses and horse-drawn trams.
A couple of people asked the guy in charge how to walk to downtown. "You can't walk there," he told them. "You have to take a shuttle."
Wrong.
It's a pleasant walk to downtown from Ogden Point, where the cruise ships come in. I'd estimate it takes about 15 minutes, and you get to see a nice slice of Victoria you might miss otherwise.
When you come out of customs, ignore the guy directing people to the buses and turn left. When you get to the road (Dallas Drive), turn left again and keep walking. Before you know it, you'll be in the heart of the Inner Harbour.
Of course, if you'd like to take a bus to Butchart Gardens or enjoy a horse-drawn tour of Victoria, by all means do so. But don't let anyone tell you you can't walk to downtown from Ogden Point. Just a little inside knowledge to help you enjoy your stay.

If you have a car and a few days to spend

Someone who is visiting Victoria on a two-day trip recently asked: Should I rent a car to visit other parts of Vancouver Island, or simply explore the area on foot (and public transport)?
My answer: If you're only here for two days, you don't really need a car. You can walk from downtown to most of the popular attractions, and you can find public transportation or tour buses to the others (Butchart Gardens, Oak Bay Marina).
If you have more than a couple of days, however, there is plenty to see in the Greater Victoria area and beyond.
First, a basic fact of life here is that we are on an island. That means that every road out of Victoria comes to a dead end sooner or later, some sooner than others. There are basically three roads out of Victoria, and each has its own particular charms. I'll give you the essentials, and you can explore further on your own.
The first road out is the Island Highway, which eventually will take you to Sooke, Jordan River and Port Renfrew (the end of the road). Along the way you can stop for swimming and scenery at the Sooke Potholes, take a walk along French Beach (in the photo), and check out the interesting historical museum. This area also has some of the region's best restaurants, particularly the Sooke Harbour House (rated one of the best in Canada) and Point No Point, both of which are attached to lodgings. By the way, I've never made it as far as Port Renfrew; the road there is reported to be quite rugged and one-lane at times.
The second road out of town is the Patricia Bay Highway, or Pat Bay. You will have already been on this road if you came in on the ferry from Vancouver. This is where you'll find Butchart Gardens, the Butterfly Gardens and several wineries. If you're out this way, you should plan on spending some time in Sidney, which has a lovely waterfront and several good restaurants and pubs. It's also known for its bookstores.
Finally, the main road out of town is the Trans-Canada Highway, which leads to the Cowichan Valley and Nanaimo. North of Nanaimo are Courtenay and Comox, and to the west are Tofino and Ucluelet. (If you make the Tofino loop, be sure to check out the goats on the roof in Coombs!) The Cowichan Valley is known for its local food and wine and is the subject of an article in the August 2009 issue of Gourmet magazine. The article singles out the Aerie Resort and Spa, the Masthead, True Grain Bread and Hilary's Cheese Company among others.

Coming to Canada? Pack clothes, not heat

I've been away from Minnesota for more than two years, but every now and then I recall the (syntax-challenged) signs that became ubiquitous after the state legislature made it legal to carry concealed weapons: "(This business) bans guns in these premises." I always wondered what kind of Wild West impression this made on foreign visitors. And this was Minnesota, for God's sake, not Texas.
A cliche holds that Canadians are Americans with health care and no handguns. I'm making no comment on that, but I will say if you find yourself crossing the border, it would be wise to refrain from packing heat.
Some recent visitors to Victoria found that out the hard way, returning to the U.S. with a criminal conviction (and $500 fine) as a souvenir after they brought a 9mm Glock handgun into Canada on the Coho Ferry. As the story in the Victoria Times Colonist describes, this guy got off easy. In a similar case, an Oregon man got himself a 30-day stay at Victoria's not-so-luxurious Crowbar Hotel.
Of course, handguns do find their way into Canada, as the gang wars in Vancouver and Toronto make clear. But we're doing our best to keep the firepower on the other side of the border.
Be advised: "Canada bans guns in these premises."

Shopaholics can get their fix on LoJo

Tourists who stray a bit from the Inner Harbour will soon find themselves on Government Street, ground zero for Victoria's souvenir and T-shirt industry. As touristy thoroughfares go, Government Street has more going for it than, say, the main drag of Niagara Falls, Ont. Its heritage buildings are attractive and well-maintained. And some of its stores (I'm thinking of Rogers' Chocolates and Munro's Books) shouldn't be missed. And you might even stumble upon a marimba band (be sure to toss a loonie into their bucket if you enjoy the music).
Hardcore shoppers will want to jag left when they get to Johnson Street, however. Lower Johnson Street (or LoJo) is where you'll find some of the best shopping in the city. (Or so they tell me. Among the many things I am not, shopper comes close to heading the list.) LoJo is mostly devoid of cheezy T-shirt places. Instead, it's lined with funky fashion boutiques, handmade soap shops and all kinds of places you'd never find in a suburban mall.
The real expert on LoJo (and the overall fashion scene in Victoria) is Times Colonist writer Sarah Petrescu. If fashion is your thing, you might want to go online and find some of her articles before you come so you'll be ready to make the most of the LoJo experience.

Butchart Gardens like a local

Unless you are going to be in Victoria for only a few hours — and maybe even then — you should find a way to get to Butchart Gardens. In my experience, when you get home, people will ask you if you went to (a) the Empress for tea and (b) the gardens, so you might as well do both. But the gardens are one of the few attractions you can't walk to. So how should you get there?
If you happen to have a car, it's easy: drive. The route from downtown to Butchart is easy and scenic, and there is plenty of parking once you get there.
When I came back from Seattle on the Victoria Clipper recently, they were signing people up for bus tours, which seemed to me like a pretty good deal. You could board the bus right off the ferry for a quick tour of the city, then head off to Butchart Gardens, and finally be taken right to your hotel for check-in.
Cruise ship passengers can get a good deal on the Cruise Victoria buses, too. And you can get to the gardens on Gray Line and similar tours. If that kind of sightseeing is to your liking, you'll have no trouble making arrangements.
You might want to consider another more adventurous option, though: public transit. If you really want to see Victoria like a local (and save some loonies), this is the way to go. Victoria's city buses are safe, clean and (usually) punctual. And a one-way fare is only $2.25 (you'll need correct change, or you can get day passes that will let you ride anywhere).
To get to Butchart Gardens via BC Transit, you catch the No. 30 bus downtown to the Royal Oak Exchange (ask for transfers when you get on; you have to change buses at Royal Oak). The 30 runs up Douglas Street about every 15 minutes, and Royal Oak is the end of the line. At Royal Oak, you use your transfer to take the No. 75 to the gardens. To get back downtown, you reverse the process; don't forget to ask for transfers. If you have questions about the bus, the staff at your hotel should be happy to answer them. See the BC Transit website for more details.
Two more things about the gardens: They have fireworks on Saturday evenings. BC Transit runs a bus into Victoria after the fireworks. Times vary, so call BC Transit at 250-382-6161. Press 0 when the recorded message begins and ask the attendant for the time on the night you wish to visit. And if you are going to be here at Christmastime, the gardens are a must. The lights are spectacular, and you can enjoy ice skating and holiday music in the evenings as well.

How the heck do you get here?

I'm going to make a couple of assumptions here.
First, I'm assuming you are visiting Victoria by air from the United States. And second, I'm assuming you are going to want to visit Seattle and Vacouver along with Victoria. If you're going to be out this way, you might as well make it a trifecta (or a hat trick ... this is Canada, after all).
So here is how I would make the trip if I were you:
1. Fly to Seattle. That will be the cheapest destination from within the U.S. See all the sights there, not omitting the Experience Music Project, which is ultracool.
2. Take the Victoria Clipper to Victoria. It is a passenger ferry that leaves from downtown Seattle and arrives in Victoria's Inner Harbour.
3. Enjoy everything Victoria has to offer.
4. Take the ferry to Vancouver. You can get a bus in downtown Victoria that goes on the ferry, then takes you to downtown Vancouver, which is where you should stay.
5. When you're ready to go back, take this bus, which goes from downtown Vancouver to Seatac:
6. Reluctantly fly home.
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Off-the-beaten-path restaurants

My sister-in-law Jeannie from St. Louis has friends coming to visit and wonders what restaurants I would recommend.
A-ha! A blog post topic! So here's what I told her:
Oak Bay Marina — they would need a car for this, or they could take a cab, but it has great seafood and a sushi bar and it is right on the water away from the tourist area. Also seals come to feed at the dock.
Sooke Harbour House — they really need a car for this ... It’s about 45 minutes out of town. But this place is generally recognized internationally as Victoria's best restaurant. Also tres expensive.
Blue Crab — It’s in the Coast Hotel by the harbour in the tourist area. Good seafood, pretty views.
Il Terrazzo — Italian, but not like in St. Louis. (That's no knock on St. Louis Italian; I love it. But this is more West Coast-y.) In the heart of downtown in a beautiful space.
I'd also recommend two in the James Bay neighbourhood, very walkable from downtown: Niche (in an old house) and the Superior Café (in an old church). Both are pretty small, so reservations would be smart. They are both a little off the beaten tourist path, which is good. Superior often has jazz in the evening.
Sushi: Lots of good places. We like Sen Zushi the best, easy walk from the harbour. We were there last Tuesday and it was packed, so reservation might be smart. Koto on Fort Street is another good one. It is right downtown.
Indian: Very popular here. India Curry House and Da Tandoor (can't find a website for them), both downtown, are good. Wherever you go, you have to have butter chicken, which seems to be a local specialty.
Chinese: Ming’s and Don Mee’s are the most popular but might not be the best (Don Mee’s is a fixture in Chinatown; it is very upscale in a ‘50s kind of way). I think most locals say Golden City, just a short walk from Chinatown, is the best.
Pubs: They are all over the place. I would say you should venture away from the tourist area just a bit. Two good ones are Canoe Club, which is on the edge of Chinatown, and Spinnakers, which is across the Blue Bridge (the Johnson Street Bridge). Canoe has a nice outdoor patio, and a friend recommends the bellinis (see the bellini post below).
I'm sure my legions of blog followers would be happy to add their favourites, too.